WINTERING POND CONSTRUCTION
OVER WINTERING POND
Rather
than leave my fish in the dug pond I thought it would be best for their
health to
build a pond to serve that purpose. Due to its orientation, this pond
is also heated during the winter months. Since I already had a SOUTH
facing wall, the most economical decision was to construct a lean-to
greenhouse and pond at the same time. I tried to fully utilize space I
already had, and even considered putting a filtration bay under the walkway.
My lean-to greenhouse worked out so well that I wouldn't hesitate to build
another by framing in another NORTH wall and attaching the lean-to.
The photos below depict the step by step construction of the 7000 imperial
gallon Over Wintering Pond.
Eugene
Gmitrowicz
It
is important to decide where material is going to be disposed, before
getting the largest possible machine to move it all. When selecting an
operator consider one with grave digging experience.
As
in my case the ground was soft enough, and the dirt was removed with
the front bucket.
Notice
that 2 corner posts were put in to mark the area of the lean-to
greenhouse and pond. At the far end, one greenhouse metal frame-rib
has been put in position to check the dimensions.
My
location turned out to be very sandy, and sand has a tendency to shift
easily, so I made a decision to build a super-strong wooden pond. Most of
the lumber was scrap, obtained from a large building site, stock piled for
about 2 months then pre-cut. This type of construction does use a
tremendous amount of lumber, but makes for a cleaner job. Insulating
the walls is simplified as you'll see in later photos.
Here,
you see the walls framed up (after being built on a flat surface) ready to
lowered into the excavation. All 2x6 material.
Once
the walls are in position, steel bars were driven through the base plate
deep into the ground pinning them in that position.
Notice
the greenhouse anchor pipes have been installed in position at 4 foot
centers. Each anchor pipe is fastened to a wall stud by means of lag bolts
through the pipe an the wall stud. 
The
walls are covered with vertical 2x6 and 2x8 facing to retain the back-fill.
These were all installed with 4" deck screws for additional strength above
what nails would provide. If you are not going to insulate the interior pond
walls, it is advisable to countersink all screw heads below the surface to
avoid tearing the liner. Nailing an installation of this type together
is simply NOT ADVISABLE due to the pressure from the back-filled earth.
The
other side wall is ready to put in position. If this had been a
smaller pond it could have been faced before lowering in, but due to the
weight it had to be done after placement. Notice the water laying, a
sure indication that a drainage pipe will have to be installed.
All
the framework is in position and has been vertically faced with one wall
extended on the right where the filter will be installed. Notice the extra
bracing (left side of photo) attached to the building wall to provide extra
support during back filling. All along the top of the walls 2x8 plates
have been installed and will be built up to the desired height above ground.
A
view from the other direction showing construction and note the accumulated
water being pumped out to help dry it up.
It's
still quite wet and only a small amount of material has been backfilled.
Doing too much too soon could push in the pond walls. You can see the anchor
posts for the green house walls along the back walls. They will help keep
the pond walls in place, especially when the pond is drained.
Here's
an example where the back fill got wet and caused the pond wall to buckle
in. I had to dig it out and provide extra bracing (bottom of photo)
from the outside to hold the wall in place.
The
wall base has been extended to the length of the existing greenhouse (green
wall) with a heavy duty railway tie seated on gravel.
Notice
that crib-braces have been dropped in at the top (left to right) to prevent
buckling of the long walls (21' long) and the perimeter belt of 2x8
lumber that goes around the top of the pond walls is now 4 layers
thick.
The
lean-to greenhouse wall ribs are installed. These ribs are comprised of 4
sections that fit together and slip onto the anchor pipes installed on the
back pond wall. At the high end, each of these assemblies is fastened
to a plate that runs the entire length of the large greenhouse. Due to
slight differences in the bend curvature, one rib had to supported into
place before the horizontal braces were installed. Notice the back-spalsh in
place along the top of the back pond wall.
The
end wall has been framed in, as well as the space that will hold the filter
unit. The space between the large greenhouse and the new pond (right hand
side of photo) has been completely backfilled to create a walkway. The
material used for back filling here was granular 'A', it packs well
but doesn't hold the water, important during winter, frozen dirt would
surely create unwanted pressure on the long pond wall.
Just
a view of my marshalling area where I stockpiled my scrap lumber. This
particular collection is what it took to raise the pond perimeter
walls 18" above ground. REMEMBER: The higher the walls, the greater the
pressure exerted by the water. Scrap lumber made this type of construction
possible, otherwise the cost would have been prohibitive.
A
view of the other end of the lean-to greenhouse that is now all framed in.
In the foreground is the trench for drainage that is the same depth as the
base of the pond bottom-drain.
The
framework in now ready to cover with 6 mill polyethylene.
A
double layer of plastic is installed. The plastic is double so that
air can be blown in between the layers. Stacked up on the right hand side of
the photo is the rigid Styrofoam insulation for the pond walls.
The
rigid foam insulation has been installed on the pond walls with glue. Laying
on the base of the pond is a 4" perforated Big "O" pipe. The white covering
is a sock that will stop sand from blocking the pipe. This prevents water
from accumulating under the pond liner ensuring it drains away by
gravity. An alternative to the Big "O" is a sump pit with a pump.
Notice
the finished pond wall height above the ground. It was necessary to build it
up in order to achieve the desired water depth and volume.
Gaps
in the rigid foam insulation on the pond walls have been filled with
patching mortar. This is important, water pressure could easily push
the rubber pond liner into any small gaps. The pathway between the
pond and the large greenhouse has been finished off with interlocking
bricks. At the bottom of the pond a trench has been dug to accommodate the
bottom drain the drainage pipe. It's so wet that the pipe is full of water.
The
filtration unit is ready to be installed.
The
filtration unit is in position. Note the side drain of the pond that
could be used for added filtration or for an overflow or skimmer.
The
bottom drain is now in position and you can see the partially buried pipe.
A
box has been built for poring cement around the bottom drain.
A
closer view of the cement form, concrete poured, and a protective plastic
bag taped over the top of the drain housing for protection. Once the
depth and location of the bottom drain housing was established, a thin layer
of concrete was put down, then a 2' square patio slab for everything to rest
on. If this had been situated only on soft sand, the cement form would
have had to been larger.
The
form has now been removed and you can see the air line pipe from the spin
drifter bottom drain.
The
base of the pond has been leveled and shaped with sand to provide a slight
decline towards the bottom drain. A layer of very thin plywood
sheeting covers the sand and covering that is rigid foam insulation.
The grey felt covers the insulation and the protective bag over the bottom
drain has been removed. Watch for mice or other small rodents at this
stage, they'll cause a lot of damage chewing their way out if they get
trapped. This pond will be heated in the future by an oil fired water
heater, thus the insulation. If I wasn't going to heat, it I'd
have left out the insulation as it blocks valuable heat from the ground.
Note the 2x4s resting across the top of the pond. The rubber liner was
unrolled onto them giving support while being positioned.
With
the 2x4 supports moved out of the way, the liner is being held in place with
temporary straps nailed into the side of the pond. Time for some water.
It
took several fillings to finally get the corners correct and all the
wrinkles out ready for marking and trimming. This was a 20 x 36 foot
piece of rubber liner.
The
finished pond filled with water. Note the perimeter rail for safety.
Some
of the pipes leading to the filter. Note the "T" joint in the 4" pipe
and the 2" pipe running out of it to the drain.
Showing
how the 4" pipe enters the filter unit.
My
home made Baki Shower constructed from a restaurant kitchen exhaust hood
mounted upside down. 
A
closer look showing the lava rock.
Notice
the shade material hung during the summer to block out the hot sunlight.
A
view from the front before the windows and doors were installed as the
polyethylene was being put on.
The
back view of the building, notice the large window that swings out of the
way to provide air flow during the hot summer months.