This series of images shows the step by step construction of the Indoor Greenhouse Pond. I decided it would serve the dual purpose of a greenhouse photo studio with a garden theme pond. The pond is fully functional and heated for year round use.
The
greenhouse is 30' wide by 60' long. In this photo you can see the iron
corner and wall anchors embedded in cement columns formed by sono
tubes. Note the cement block ground frost walls for the stone waterfall
where I am standing. Eventually 2" thick rigid foam insulation was
applied on the exterior of the frost walls. The closest corner in the photo
is where the tea garden area is located, the brick wall actually sits on
this foundation. 
An
excavator was brought in to do the digging. At this time the hole for
the indoor pond was dug and a well in the north east corner just outside the
building perimeter. I had already dug a test hole for the well to test for
water. I was extremely fortunate as the water flow was very good, so
much so that when the time came to install the well tiles, they had to be
done immediately to avoid a cave in. At this time the big decorative
rocks were moved into place while there was room for the equipment to
maneuver. 
Shown here is the excavation which is 6ft. deep, note how the soft sand
has slid in from the sides. In the centre of the pond the sand is a little
darker due to moisture in it. Due to the soil conditions I then
planned to put in a standard 18" foundation and build up the pond walls with
cement blocks. To use a rubber liner under these conditions wasn't
possible, I didn't have the room around the perimeter to spare to provide
the long slope.
All
excavating is done at this point and some back filling has been completed.
Planning is vital, moving the large rocks into position with the excavator
at this time may seem premature but would be an impossible task once
the building was up. At the front of the photo note the ground frost wall to
support the waterfall. These walls were built on a conventional cement
footing, and on top, a reinforced cement pad was poured for plenty of
support. Two unexpected things were discovered during this time, one that
the walls of the pond were mostly sand, and at the bottom of the excavation
although getting rocky, water was encountered.
The outside greenhouse structure is moving along here and it was at this
time I decided it would be a good idea to plan for a service room. The
small building on the left side with the white door houses the electrical
panel, oil fired furnace and water heater. This is the source of the
hot water that circulates through the heating coils embedded right in the
cement floor of the pond.
With the greenhouse all closed in it's now possible to continue working
inside regardless of the weather. By this time I had decided to
go with a cement pond and forget about using rubber liner. A
connecting pad would have to be poured between the waterfall and the pond.
Cement walls creating the space for the filter units would also have to put
in. The challenge was to have as many things prepared and ready to do
as much cement poring at once. 
Here
the filter chamber walls are shown ready for pouring. Near the top of the
photo you can see the large opening in the north wall because the waterfall
will be constructed from the outside. Note the exterior pond block wall in
the filter chamber (near small steps). For added strength and support I
eventually poured a secondary cement wall (top to bottom) where I couldn't
back fill.
In
this view you can seen see the filter chamber walls have been poured and the
filter units are in position. The complicated plumbing can now be
planned. Take notice of the cement pad in the bottom of the pond. Two
bottom drains have been located as well as their pipes. In this photo
a clear view of the space between the pond and the left building wall can be
seen that eventually became the vegetation canal.
In
this photo the pond floor is ready to be poured. The bottom drains
have had covers installed over them to keep debris from falling in.
Rigid foam insulation is installed with the heating coils on top of that..
see the article "Heating the 7000 gallon
Indoor Pond"
The
pond base has been poured, and steeply sloped to create a more concave
bottom. Aerated bottom drain installations normally do not need this
amount of slope to work properly, I however needed the extra strength
because my work flow did not allow for a continuous pour of the foundation
walls and base. On the other hand the extra slope towards the pond
center keeps debris moving in the direction of the bottom drains.The secondary cement wall by the filter units can be seen, most of the waterfall is up, and the top pond perimeter is ready for the cement form to create the cap that will hold the decorative stones all the way around. The space between the pond and the waterfall and the pond has yet to be configured.
The
wall cap has been poured and sits atop the cement block pond walls around
the complete perimeter. The cap resembles a curb which is about 6" x
6" and will make it easier to position the decorative rocks that will be
sitting partially in the water. Rocks without sharp edges or corners were
chosen to avoid fish injuries. The rocks will be mortared into place using
the waterproofing agent Albitol generously mixed in with the mortar.
the same procedure could be used for a rubber liner pond. Any exposed
mortar must be painted to avoid leaching lime into the pond.
At
the south end of the pond a cement form is being built into which a skimmer
is being placed. This is a standard swimming pool model, if I had to
do it again I'd used one with a bigger opening because of water level
fluctuations. When performing water changes and filter flushing the skimmer
pump has to be turned off. The wiring seen in the photo is for the
skimmer pump. Skimmed water that enters the skimmer is pumped around
pond the corner underground and dumped at the top of a baki shower.
The skimmer when finished will be completely built into the pond wall cap.
Here is a good view of the completed spillway connecting the pond and the
waterfall. The pond, perimeter cap, and the spillway have all been
parged with waterproofing in the mortar. Look closely at the left side
of the photo and you will see a space between the pond cap and the building
wall. This later becomes a vegetation canal running the complete
length of the pond and is fed with water from the skimmer at the far end and
enters the pond again through a small spillway. This system helps
remove nitrates. Plant roots provide a great place for bacteria to colonize.
It also helps remove the bubbles, and the fine oily water film.
The
pond is now ready for an application of paint. Black Armatar was used.
This is a highly toxic epoxy based thick paint designed for use around
swimming pools and fish farms. It's available in a variety of colours and
the manufacturer does state it to be fish-friendly. 
The
pond is now completely painted except where the decorative stones will sit,
this area will be painted after the stones are in place. The filters are in
place and everything is ready for quick water flow test as soon as the
aerated bottom drain domes are installed.